Stuff I Use

(Note - there must have been an upgrade to "Blogger" because most of my pictures are no longer available.  Sorry about that, I will try to get it fixed)

Mudhugger Fenders
In the Northwest we get a lot of rain and if you wan to mountain bike year round you are going to get muddy (remember though if it is really bad, stay off the trails as it isn't worth ruining them).  To save your car and your riding gear you need a good set of fenders.  I have spent a lot of money on fenders over the years.  I was (and still am) a big fan of Topeak DeFenders but they didn't always work in the harsh type of conditions and riding we do.  They would break to easily or not work well when I added a dropper post.  They I started using the Mudhugger Fenders. I like them because they mount to your frame and not your post in the rear and to your fork and not your frame in the front.  Thus they move with the suspension and they don't get in the way of your dropper post. 

Field Test: They work very well when it is muddy. They don't work as well (and no fender does) when there is a lot of water on the trail as you will still get a lot of spray. They have 29" sizes and they are easy to mount using zip ties. But I found the zip ties they supply to break pretty quickly (if you are riding very bumpy terrain or jumps.  So I went a size up and put a zip tie in every hole.  I also used 3M 2228 tape on the frame and then mounted the fender.  It let me get it good and tight and took away the rattle. I also purchased the extender for both the front and rear vendor and found that the push locking pins came lose in rough terrain so I would pop rivet them or zip tie them.  Even with two zip ties I lost one on the trail from a night time crash.

Another problem in away is that they are made in UK and there is only one distributer in the US.  The good news is that they are located in Portland.  They are not cheap, a full set of 29" with the extenders will cost you about $100.  But I have found that the money has been well spent. 5-20-16

 


Corvallis Bike Shops
Corvallis is a bike friendly town with lots of bike shops, bike thieves and bike lanes. And when I say bike shops, I mean bike shops as in six (eight if you include Philomath and Oregon State University), four of which are basically on the same street downtown.  Not bad for a town of only 55,000 people (most of then OSU students).  Here is a quick take on all of them:
1. Peak Sports - www.peaksportscorvallis.com - This is the premier outdoor sports destination in Corvallis.  They have three buildings, the first being the skiing, climbing, camping, etc. location, then the bike shop/ repair shop and finally the bike rental shop.  They cater the best to mountain bikers and carry high end models of Specialized, Trek and a few others (including fat tire bikes). The shop staff are friendly and very knowledgeable (with a very very clean shop). They will do fast repairs, but depending on the time of year major repairs could be scheduled out a few weeks.
2. Corvallis Cyclery - www.corvalliscyclery.com - A great little shop that caters to the commuter with some entry to mid-level mountain Trek (and Gary Fisher) bikes. They have great mechanics who will tell you if your bike needs work or just a tweak.  They are also great "McGyvers" in getting parts to mate or making modifications to get new parts to fit on old bikes.  Not a clean shop, but that is the charm and it is right behind the counter.
3. Bike N' Hike - www.bikenhike.com - Also a long standing tradition in Corvallis that caters to the family riding scene.  They also have some high end mountain bikes from Giant and Norco (and maybe some Kona). This is one of six locations in Oregon. Friendly and good shop staff (and a clean shop area).
4. Cyclotopia - http://cyclotopia.com/ - I have to be honest, I have not used them for repair work, and every time I've gone into the shop, there has been a very small selection of assorted bikes.  They carry Kona, but I know the lease about them.
5. Bicycle State One - This is a new shop in Philomath and one that you hope makes it.  It is a small shop the prides repair and supplies.  They have family bikes and carry Redline hard tails. Stop in and buy something to keep it there.
6. Corvallis Bicycle Collective - http://www.corvallisbikes.org/ - This is a not for profit co-op that serves the local bicycle community. Its mission is to make it easier for people to build and maintain bicycles and other human powered, wheeled conveyances. They have a large inventory of bike parts and teach repair classes.  While not a mountain bike specific shop, they are a great community resource.
7. OSU Recreational Sports - http://oregonstate.edu/recsports/ALI/equipment-rental-bike-shop - while not open to the public (you have to be a student, alum, faculty or work on campus) it does rent bikes to those who qualify.

 

SixSixOne Riot Knee and Elbow soft shell pads

If you have read any of my blogs you have noticed my reoccurring theme of getting injured, something that is common with mountain bikers.  Now, not withstanding the occasional broken collar bone or wrist, most of the time it is a skinned elbow or scraped knee.  After a few of these knee and elbow injuries I decided it was time to get some protection for when the ride shows signs of dumping me (like the South Side Slip).  After my success with the SixSixOne Bomber Shorts when I went looking for some elbow and knee protection I started with SixSixOne.  I am not a Downhiller (meaning full face helmet and dual-crown bike), so I wasn't looking for medieval jousting armor.  I just wanted something that would give good protect and be very flexible and of course not very expensive.  After doing my research 661 fit the bill.  The knee pads can be found for about $35 and the elbow pads for about $27.  I ordered mine in "medium" and they come as pairs and they are designed with a left and right side.

661 has several different lines of matching knee and elbow pads and I after using the Riot series I am very pleased with their performance.  The first time I wore them I was worried they would bind or be uncomfortable, and the first time they were as I tried to get used to them.  I wore them for Oregon Adventure's Oakridge 17000 Vertical in a Day which was a 10 hour day of 4000 feet of climbing and nothing but downhill all day.  I got used to the knee pads right away, they can be a little warm, but I didn't mind it (old knees like to be warm and loose).  The elbow pads were a different story, when they were on, you can't really flex your arms at the elbow very well, which I didn't like until I started riding and realized you don't fully flex your elbows when riding.  I found that if I didn't tighten them up, they would slide down, especially if I had some sort of sleeve or arm warmer on.  To wear you slip them on, then there are velco straps to adjust and tighten.  The knee pads never slipped. 

Since wearing them, I have had several "opportunities" test these out.  I went over the handle bars twice on a night ride coming down Tin Can from the top of McCulloch Peak and I came up unscathed.  One other benefit I discovered from wearing them was protection from branches, blackberry bushes and the occasional tree rub. (9/22/13)



Topeak DeFender XC-11 29er
I like to use a product for awhile before I put it on this list, but this fender is different.  I've only been using it a few weeks and I'm converted.  I have been running the standard fenders for 26" bikes on my 29er and they just didn't work.  Also, I had to keep the fender up the seat post so high that I couldn't run a saddle bag (which I use to keep a pump, tools and a spare).  I expressed my dilemma to Nelson at Peak Sports and he pointed me to the Topeak DeFender XC-11 29er which has a "max mud" protection and it is true. It comes with dual adjustments and quick release lock.

I took it out on the trail and good wet day wearing a white jersey.  With my typical fenders I'd come home with splatter everywhere and a "racing stripe" up my back and shorts.  After this ride, the front was splattered and there was nothing on my back and I could carry my saddle bag. Well worth the $29. (11/17/12)

http://www.topeak.com/products/Fenders/defender_xc11_29er

SixSixOne Elite Bomber Shorts - Over the last 7 years of mountain biking I received bruises so bad on my hips that I had to have them drained.  They do that by sticking a needle in the middle of the bruise and sucking out the fluid. Sounds great huh, the result is that I have bursitis in both hips (part of the bone sticks out and creates an irritation), so I can't lie on my side on a hard flat surface. About 6 months ago took a hard fall in the parking lot after a night ride (didn't see an asphalt drop) and landed hard on my hip. I finally decided that I needed to get some protection.

The result was the 2011 SixSixOne Bomber Shorts. I did a lot of research, but the one of the biggest things for me, of course is cost (I paid $49).  They have hard padding in the hip, thigh, and butt bone area.  They also have a chamois crotch. I have been riding them for about six months (I purchased two) and there are two things I don't like and one thing I'd do different.  What I don't like is that there is no drawstring and the black dye is not set (meaning it fades on anything you wear under it).  I wear white Lycra, and they are turning black as I sweat.  I also still wear my baggy shorts, so I would purchase a version (I think the 2012's come this way) without the chamois, or you can wear regular shorts if you want (but double chamois is a bit much). I do have to say, that while they don't have a drawstring, they have never fell down.  My concern is, over time and use, will the elastic in the waistband and the legs weaken (thus requiring a drawstring).

What I do like is the protection.  I have had several crashes and over-bars and haven't felt a thing on my hips. The legs have spandex and they stay up quite well even without a drawstring.  I don't do any downhill bombing, but I have been on 27 and 34 miles rides and didn't feel I was wearing to much with these and a pair of shorts.  If you are worried about banging your hips, these are a great choice.

Here is a price example - http://www.jensonusa.com/!sK5IXQu4dY63rnRHiIy7dA!/Sixsixone-Elite-Bomber-Short-11?utm_source=FRGL&utm_medium=organic

7/15/14 Update - 661 has changed the bomber short.  Is now longer available in this configuration with the hard hip inserts.  It is now "softer" with thick pads that are not hard shell.  What do I mean by that? When I put my 2011 models on I can knock on the hip pads and it sounds like I'm knocking on a door.  The new model doesn't have that hard pad in it.  I'm concerned it doesn't provide the hip protection the old model did.  I just got a pair and I'll have a review soon.

Baggy Bike Shorts - as you know if you have read any of these, I'm a practical shopper when it comes to bike gear, especially clothing.  I have a number of "free" jerseys from car test drives, thrift stores, e-bay, etc. Also, I don't do Lycra riding shorts.  I'm a baggy kind of guy.  My answer for riding shorts are the inexpensive online kind.  I like them to have at least an 11" in-seam so they are at my knee (helps avoid some scratching in the bushes) and I like them to have pockets, chamois, and a drawstring. I spend between $29 and $39 for them.  The downhillers like them out of tougher material and longer, but I don't like the "heavy" feel they give. These are light, but that means they don't resist water, they'll soak through in the rain, but dry quickly.  Nashbar, PricePoint, and Performance all have versions.  Here are some links for Nashbar and Performance.  My favorite are the ones from Performance for $29.  I've purchased 3 pair, and still have my original ones 6 years later (3/12/12):
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1091098_-1_1590008_20000_400067
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_526523_-1_203040_10000_202483

Knog Frog Rear Light - having lost two rear bike lights on the trails (one of which I found, then lost it myself), I was frustrated with how to have a rear light that make sure I didn't get run over, but tough enough to take riding single track.  The answer is the simple Frog Light from Knog. This is a simple design that is water and mud proof. It costs about $15 and stretchy wrap around attach mechanism works on any bar.  The other problem I had with rear lights is that on my 29" with a fender, it hid the traditional seat lights. The "frog" solves this issue by mounting seat tube and to the side, so it is not blocked by the fender. It has multiple strobe settings and you can turn it off while even wearing winter gloves. Just push the center of the light. This is a great light for those who need a little protection getting to the trail head.  Here is a link to Amazon, but I bought one for the same price at Peak Sports. (1/22/12)
http://www.amazon.com/Knog-Frog-Strobe-Lights-Black/dp/B002VJJLYY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1327294646&sr=8-2

MagicShine Lights - I have used the MagicShine lights for almost fou years now.  They are bright (900 to 1800), reliable, have good battery life, and best of all they are cheap (between $50 to $100+).  Which means for the price of a normal light, you can get three MagicShines.  The best place to find them is on Amazon.com under various names like MagicShine or Cree (http://www.amazon.com/MJ-808E-CREE-XM-L-lumens-light/dp/B0051C0RCS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1353300575&sr=8-2&keywords=magicshine+mj-880 ) and has various configurations, but if you are going to run on your helmet, make sure you get the option with the helmet mount (about $10).  I have used this light year round, rain, snow, etc. and it has performed great.  Battery has an extra long cord, so you don't have to mount it on the helmet. I recommend getting two for the best experience night riding.  One on your bar, and one on your helmet. (revised 11/17/12).  These prices have continued to drop, look on Amazon for Cree lights, they are about $20 now (added 12/28/14).

Setti Shoes - I have 2 pairs of these shoes and my son has a pair.  They are perfect for the Willamette Valley riding.  They have three velcro straps and they breath well in the summer and dry out fast in the winter (I keep them inside in the winter to help them dry out).  Best of all they are very inexpensive.  I get them online at places like http://www.pricepoint.com/ for under $50. Shoe makers talk about "comfort", but in reality, you want a good fit that holds your foot in place while you pedal. These are stiff at first, then get loose and flexible.  The material stands up well to constant moisture you get with valley winter riding conditions.  I will say that I use these with toe covers in the winter, or my toes would bet more wet.  The only thing I have noticed is that because of the venting, they are not a warm shoe when it is below feezing. But because of the adjustable velcro straps, they can adjust when I wear two pair or thicker socks.

Bell Slant Helmet - I have used the Bell Slant for almost 5 years now (I have purchased 4 of them over years).  There are several reasons I like it, one because it looks good and it is an inexpensive (as little as $30 for a 2009 model).  It has plenty of vents which allow me to cool off and mount my helmet light.  It has also saved my life by protecting my head as I crashed on the McKenzie trail.  The Slant broke, but my head didn't.  Another feature I like is the "spin" adjuster in the back.  It allows me to quickly adjust if I take off a skull cap or put one on. I have purchased them on-line at a good price and I have seen no real difference between years.  I like the Matte Carbon Black. Here is an example of pricing (4/29/11):
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPATV4/ref=asc_df_B000BPATV41526855/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395021&creativeASIN=B000BPATV4&linkCode=asn


Ergon Grips - I have used the Ergon GC2's with bar ends for over a year now. I can't say enough about them. They are durable and comfortable. The GC2's have a flat area to rest your palm, but provide a great grip. You can also shift your hands and grasp the bar ends to help on climbs or to relax on the flats. With traditional grips, my hands always fall asleep on short rides, but I can go 20+ mile rides now without that happening because of the ergonomics of the GP2 and the many different hand positions that are possible. Ergon makes a number of grips, but for about $30 these are best value. (11/11/10)
http://www.ergon-bike.com/


Bike Theft Registration - Two sites I have looked at are the "National Bike Registry" which is a paid site ($10 for one bike, $25 for five) www.nationalbikeregistry.com/ and a free site called "Bike Registry " http://bikeregistry.com/. When you invest so much in a bike and then it is taken, you can feel helpless. This is something you can do to help get it back (and watch for it on Ebay or CraigsList). (10/01/10)

Road ID - I got one because I mountain bike by myself, but I also realized that I commute every day and an accident can happen at anytime. Cost was about $20. (09/01/10)
http://www.roadid.com/Common/default.aspx